Rivera Restaurant - A Culinary Journey

John Sedlar is a Los Angeles chef/restaurateur icon.  In 1980 he opened St. Estephe in a Manhattan Beach strip center where he combined the traditional foods of his Santa Fe childhood with classic French techniques.  This resulted in innovative Southwest dishes that could either delight or bewilder (often at the same time) the local foodies for their ingredients and often outrageous presentation.  I know this because my companion was one of St. Estephe’s first customers and remained loyal throughout St. Estephe’s life even though he lived on the other side of Los Angeles. 

When we learned that John Sedlar had opened Rivera is downtown Los Angeles, my companion could not wait to go, just for “old times sake.”  When I read S. Irene Virbila’s highly complimentary review, I insisted we go immediately, which we did.  We were not disappointed then and have not been during any of our subsequent visits.  Although Rivera looks nothing like St. Estephe, my companion becomes nostalgic when he sees images of the old restaurant that are flashed on the walls.  Personally, I think he secretly hopes to see himself hoisting a glass of champagne with a blonde lovely from another era.

There have been numerous articles about John Sedlar and Rivera in the Los Angeles Times, thus there is no reason for me to add my two cents on the topic.  Instead, I have chosen to take my culinary journey through Rivera with photographs rather than platitudes.  Enjoy.

Tortillas Florales, "Indian Butter" and Xnipek - a Yucatan style charred habanaro "dog's snout" salsa.  That Salsa really has some kick to it and the tortillas are almost too pretty to eat.

Shrimp and Watermelon Mojito Salad, Cucumber & Mint - a perfect palate cleanser, who needs sorbet?

I dream of this salad - Salad of Red Cabbage, Cabrales Blue Cheese, Lardoons....

Poblano Chile Relleno Salad, Smoked Chicken, Corn, and Pimonton Aioli....I'm addicted!

Old-Fashioned Red Chile Chicken Enchilada - simply delicious!

Olive Oil Cake, Creme Fraiche, Strawberry Sorbet, Xerez Vinegar - the perfect way to end the journey.

I love this photo of the bull fighter - reminds me of Hemingway.

The perfect Spanish White Wine - Godello, Rafael Palacios...

The menu options are endless - taste from one, or sample from all!

Wall of Tequila - Gorgeous Room!

The Tequila Bottle Chandeler!

Duo of Gazpachos - Circa 2009

Another Artisinal Cocktail with Gin, Cucumber & Lime - Circa 2009

Purple Rain - Seasonal Cocktail - Circa 2009

Click on the following links to read about Rivera and John Sedlar, his resume and his food.  And for those who like interesting cookbooks, don’t forget to get a copy of John Sedlar’s Modern Southwest Cuisine that was published in 1986 and is sold at Rivera (at least it was when we visited in September).

 Recent article in LA Times Food Section on Chef John Sedlar

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-john-sedlar-20110915,0,7919522.story

S. Irene Virbila’s review of Rivera:

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-review1-2009apr01,0,3103229.story

To go to Rivera, reservations can be made online at Open Table or by calling:

Rivera Restaurant
1050 South Flower Street, Suite 102
Los Angeles, CA 90015
213-749-1460
www.riverarestaurant.com

Thanks for stopping by Christy's Palate - comments always appreciated!

Turner Davis - Twin Towers

Like art, grief is highly personal.  The same piece of art—or tragic event—may generate a variety of emotions and reactions among those who have directly or indirectly experienced its impact.  With the tenth anniversary of 9/11 fast approaching, people worldwide are expressing the feelings and emotions evoked by that ridiculous and cowardly act of terrorism and the heroism shown by so many during and after the event.  But I don’t need an anniversary as a reminder.  In fact, I am reminded of 9/11 every single day.
 
In addition to being a Culinary Diva, I am an insatiable art collector.  My companion, who shares this addiction, and I travel far and wide to attend art shows, museum exhibitions and the like.  We collect what we love and this has led to some acquisitions beyond means and budgets.  We see many, many art pieces each year, but every so often an art piece creates a special and indelible impression on our collective psyches.

Several years ago during a visit to Scottsdale art galleries, my art companion and I encountered a painting that affected us deeply.  Turner Davis is a wonderful young artist whose work is shown at the prestigious Riva Yares Gallery.  Turner’s father, James G. Davis, is a well-known surrealist painter and father and son share many painting and compositional attributes.

When I first saw The Twin Towers, I didn't know what to think of the piece. It was disturbing and deeply captivating at the same time, made more so by its large size (70 inches by 70 inches).  The size and style of the painting really did not fit our house and collection, but I could not stop thinking about it.  Periodically I would visit Turner’s website to see his new works, but I kept coming back to The Twin Towers.  Turner and I even communicated about the painting from time-to-time with Turner wanting to find a home for it with us and I resisting for a variety of reasons that don’t usually deter an avid art collector—i.e., space, style and price.  At one point, we thought the painting had been sold and were crushed by the news.  But life can be fortuitous sometimes, and in June Turner wrote asking if we were still interested in The Twin Towers.  A true art addict looks everywhere for inspiration, and we viewed Turner’s missive as a sign from the art gods that The Twin Towers was meant for us.  So we broke our piggy banks, looked under seat cushions for change, completely rearranged our already over-crowded walls, and took the plunge.  The Twin Towers was ours. 

The Twin Towers can be interpreted in many ways. That is what makes art so interesting and this painting so exciting and challenging.  What follows is my interpretation.

I, like the artist, am turning 40 this year. Maybe that is one reason I connected so strongly with this painting.  Turner and I grew up during the same eras—from the political turmoil of the 70s, to the excesses of the 80s, to the banking meltdown of 2008, to the “recession” that still grips the world.  Throughout Turner’s and my life, a sense of hopelessness has frequently prevailed.  No matter what you do, it is not enough or it won’t change things.  My defense mechanism is an endless, if not naïve, optimism that sometimes blinds me to the reality of life its own self. 

 
 
For me, this painting is all about hope and action trumping evil and it abounds in symbols.  Evil is afoot as symbolized by the smoking twin towers and the dark masses passing over the Earth.  Death is imminent as symbolized by the snake that has worked its way from the shore and threatens to wreak havoc on this innocent family.  And the skeletal remains scattered among the family are reminders that death is not a new concept.  The family’s idyllic life, as evidenced by the fishing tackle and the children playing prince and princess, is being compromised by the turmoil around them.  But evil cannot be ignored.  Hearing no evil (the headphones), seeing no evil (the stars in the eyes) and speaking no evil (clenched lips) won’t make it go away.  The children seem to realize this as this they look imploringly at their father for guidance.  Though the father may not have acted yet, others have as evidenced by the firefighter bravely heading into the gloom and doom before him. 

I would like to think the father will emerge from the sand, put his arms around his children and tell them everything will be alright.  I would like to think the brave firefighter represents the many that should take action against the misguided few who threaten our very existence. 

The fragile nature of life is rampant in this painting.  But so too is the message of hope.  Against the evil portrayed by this painting stand the prince and princess of innocent youth providing hope that all will be fine in the future.  While 9/11 is the catalyst for this painting, the on-going need to stand tall against evil, strife and adversity is its theme.
 
This is what I see when I study The Twin Towers.  What do you see?

For information about Turner Davis:

http://tdavis.myexpose.com/

Gilt Taste - Guilty Pleasures

The “Dog Days of August” here in the desert are hard on a Culinary Diva.  The best restaurants are closed, the weekly farmers’ market is but a memory, and “freshness” is not a word associated with the produce at the local supermarkets.  The highlight of my day is the trip to the mailbox in hope for the latest issue of Food and Wine or the Chef’s Catalogue.  Heck, I am overjoyed to receive the Omaha Steaks mailer.

So imagine my surprise when I stumbled upon an Internet solution to my summer doldrums.  Gilt Taste is a purveyor of gourmet food items grown, raised, harvested or picked from across the country.  At the click of the mouse, I can have transported directly to my home such treats as black garlic, New Zealand roasting rabbits, Mikuni Wild Harvest mushrooms and finger limes or Bryan Flannery’s fine selection of meats.  These are wonderful products, carefully packaged and express delivered to ensure that freshness is a condition and not merely an aspiration. 

Sasha the Wonder Dog, preparing for another hot day in August!

But by far the most exciting product is the CSA Box that has become the basis for a culinary challenge to pass away the hot August days and nights.  The CSA Box is filled to the brim with a chef’s selection of seasonal vegetables from the rich soils of Ohio, near Lake Erie.  Its arrival signals a Christmas-like moment when the package is opened to reveal the treasure inside.  For those who remember the television food show Ready, Set, Cook, think of this box as containing the surprise ingredients from which you craft a meal.  Some of the ingredients are readily recognizable but of a variety and quality not found locally here in the desert.  I have eaten squash blossoms in restaurants but never seen them at Jensen’s or Ralph’s.  I did not know carrots came in such a rainbow of colors.  And I had no idea that lettuce could be so fragrant and enticing.

Several words of caution:  one, as we all know, Internet shopping is addictive and Gilt Taste can lead to a serious strain on one’s credit card.  Two, shipments are coming directly from the producers and delivery information is sometimes inaccurate (Gilt Taste is working on this).  On at least two occasions a delivery was made before I received an e-mail alert that a shipment was coming.  If you live in Alaska, this might not be such a problem.  But here in the desert, packages left out in 100+ degree weather don’t fare well.  So my intrepid companion was made to stand daily watch until the deliveries were made, a situation he found tiresome.  Three, the produce is fresh and not sitting around in someone’s warehouse.  So there can be delays in shipment.  If you need something for a dinner party in two days, you might end up disappointed.

Here is my photographic tribute to the CSA Farm Fresh Produce that has made me one happy Culinary Diva this August:

To purchase your own CSA Farm Fresh Produce and other quality products from Gilt Taste:

http://www.gilttaste.com/products/86063777-chef-s-garden-csa-style-seasonal-vegetables-and-herbs

To purchase Chesapeake Blue Crabs:

http://www.hancockgourmetlobster.com

She's Got Champagne Eyes.....

"There comes a time in every woman's life when the only thing that helps is a glass of Champagne." - Bette Davis

Ain’t that the truth!  There is just something about the whole Champagne experience that is invigorating, whether after a long day at work, participating in the pre-dawn sales at Neiman Marcus, or celebrating that long-awaited promotion, engagement or wedding.  Maybe it is the bubbles caressing one’s nose, or the ritual that attends the opening of a bottle and the pouring of the wine.  Or maybe it is the naughty inference one can draw from a Champagne coupe that allegedly was modeled on the breast of Marie Antoinette. 

For centuries, Champagne has been associated with luxury, festivities and rites of passage.  But at POP Champagne & Dessert Bar, this effervescent sensory sensation is showcased for what it is:  an exceptional aperitif or accompaniment to most any food or dessert.

My companion and I were walking the streets of Old Town Pasadena recently, killing time before our dinner reservation at a local bistro, when we spotted POP’s unique sign.  The evening was warm and sunny, our reservation was not for another hour, and so with nary a spoken word we weaved our way through passing traffic to the entrance of POP.  Stepping into POP evokes images of a Roaring Twenties speakeasy, and you expect to see Ernest Hemingway holding court at a back table with F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald.  Art deco lighting softly illuminates exposed brick walls festooned with empty gold frames, plush, royal purple booths that provide an intimate environment for their occupants, and a large, beautiful bar.  The rest of the space contains tables covered in black linens and decorated with elegant orchids.  Modern day speakeasy music adds to the ambiance of POP. 

It was Happy Hour and the bar was jammed with young, lively patrons partaking of the generous Happy Hour specials and many tables and booths were already occupied by a generational cross section of people obviously enjoying themselves.  When we said we merely wanted a glass of Champagne, we were told a table was available for an hour and we readily accepted.  Kudos to the front desk staff for accommodating us rather than turning us away.  We only intended to have one glass and be on our way, so a time constraint was perfectly appropriate and acceptable.

There are more than one hundred Champagne houses and untold sparkling wine producers, and a fair number of them are represented on POP’s uncommon wine list.  My companion and I like to think we know something about wine, but POP’s wine list made us pause and try to conjure information from past issues of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate.  Sure, there are the old standbys like Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot and Dom Perignon, and these are sold by the bottle.  But for the most part, POP’s wine list offers an intriguing representation of smaller producers, so some professional guidance is needed.  Fortunately, POP’s smartly dressed staff is as knowledgeable as it is personable and is there to guide your journey through the mysteries of the wine list.  Caryn was our designated Champagne Guide for the evening and her bubbly personality was well suited to the occasion.  We wanted to compare Champagne styles, so she paired a Bollinger Special Cuvee with a Paul Bara Brut Reserve Bouzy.  With a clink of our Champagne flutes, our journey began.

Champagne functions wells as an aperitif.  But like most French wines, it functions best with food.  Mindful of our impending dinner reservation, we resisted the temptation of appetizers.  For a brief while, that is, until we succumbed to the sight and smell of plates on nearby tables.  Caryn recommended a couple of her favorite items, we selected one, and before long Brie Toast with Chardonnay Soaked Raisins was served. This dish was a complete and utterly wonderful surprise.  Deconstructed, raisins, brie and chardonnay have a readily discernible taste.  But combined in this dish they assumed a harmonious blend of taste and texture that would make a blind identification of the ingredients quite challenging.  The depth of flavor was scintillating:  first, the chardonnay soaked golden raisins were soft, juicy and gave off a hint of seductive vanilla and lavender, followed by the silky texture of the brie, all the while supported by the crunch and slight char of the toast.  And each of the Champagnes admirably complimented this dish. 

I don’t know if caused by this dish or the Champagne, or both, but by now I had lost my willpower and sense of time.  Boldly we asked Caryn to select two sparkling wines from regions outside the United States and she brought a German Rosé and Spanish Cava.   The Latitude 50 Sekt Troken Rosé (Sekt is a German Sparkling Wine) is a dry sparkling rosé from Germany made from portugeiser (a grape variety, not a reference to an old Portuguese wine grower), dornfelder, and pinot noir.  Though it is pale salmon in color, this sparkling wine is surprisingly complex with a good dose of minerality that I like.  My first time trying a German sparkling wine, and I’m hooked!  (You can order online at www.klwines.com. )  Next up was a playful Spanish Cava:  the Raventos Cava Reserva Rosedo ’07 Penedes.  This is a fresh, concentrated, deliciously dynamic bubbly whose scent is slightly reminiscent of a grass field in the Mediterranean on a warm, summer day.  Another winner and a wine I will order again. 

Yash Youseffi, the general manager, suggested that with these two sparkling wines we try the Cherry Heirloom & Roma Tomato & Basil Bruschetta on Parmesan Crostini.  This was a match made in Heaven as both of the sparkling wines stood up well against the acidity of the bruschetta.  What surprised me about this bruschetta was the use of heirloom cherry tomatoes.  Pure bliss.  The bruschetta was light, had the right balance of acidity and fruit and tasted as if the tomatoes had just been picked.  Clearly the chef at POP cares about the ingredients used, and each dish reflects a level of sophistication that was not expected at a champagne and dessert bar.

POP has quite an extensive dinner and dessert menu to match the large Champagne inventory (all of which can be seen online).  POP offers Champagne flights, Happy Hour, brunch on the second Sunday of every month, music on Thursday and Sunday, and private events.  Also, there are still wines and glamorous specialty wine cocktails.  For those men who think Champagne (or wine in general) is only for women or to be consumed when forced at special occasions, read about Jay McInerney's wine adventure in Bacchus & Me, particularly the chapter on Champagne.  Otherwise, POP has an interesting selection of domestic and imported beers, most of which appear to be from boutique breweries. 

Visit POP the next time you are in Old Town Pasadena.  The atmosphere is warm and inviting--a throw back in time--with staff that will make the experience memorable.  Reservations are important, so plan ahead.  Or just whisper at the door:  “Christy sent me.” 

á votre santé!

POP Champagne & Dessert Bar

33 E. Union Street

Pasadena, CA 91103

Phone 626-795-1295

www.popchampagnebar.com

French Laundry

“No” is not a word I like to hear in a culinary context.  And hearing “no” over and over again is enough to discourage even the most intrepid foodie.  But the word merely makes me resolute when uttered by the reservationist at the illustrious, nearly mythical restaurant named The French Laundry.

The French Laundry is a perennial resident on Restaurant Magazine’s list of the top 50 restaurants in the world, and was designated by that publication in 2003 and 2004 as the very best.  The French Laundry is located in Yountville, right in the middle of the Napa Valley.  Over the years, my companion and I have tried many times for reservations.  Admittedly, we have not tried “dialing for dollars” three months in advance which is when reservations are opened.  That would require too much advance planning for us.  But we have tried various means without success when in the Napa Valley.  For instance, my companion once was doing a walkabout around Yountville at 4:00 a.m. and was drawn into the kitchen of The French Laundry by the smell of fresh bakery goods.  Although he was offered coffee and fresh croissants, and had a nice chat with Thomas Keller, he was not rewarded with a reservation for his insomnia. 

We have dined with great delight in Thomas Keller’s other three eating establishments in Yountville:  Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery and Ad Hoc.  Bouchon is a bistro style restaurant with wonderful shellfish and a menu with excellent variety and appeal.  Bouchon Bakery purveys a panoply of fresh baked pastries, cakes, breads and the like.  Its devotees line up before the opening just to ensure first dibs.  And Ad Hoc is incredibly unique in that the daily menu is prix fixe and contains one, and only one, selection for each course.  Unless you have checked out the website in advance, you don’t know what is being served until you sit down.  You always hope for fried chicken but are never disappointed with what is served. 

On my recent trip to the Napa Valley, I was able to stroll through the gardens of The French Laundry.  It is here that Thomas Keller grows much of the produce used in his restaurants.  It is the closest I have been to a coveted table and I thought those of you who tend home gardens will draw inspiration from seeing some of the photos I took.  For many of you—perhaps me included—it may be the closest you will ever get to a table at The French Laundry.

The French Laundry
6640 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599
707-944-2380
www.thefrenchlaundry.com

Bouchon
6534 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599
707-944-8037
www.bouchonbistro.com

Ad Hoc
6476 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599
707-944-2487
www.adhocrestaurant.com